1 week in Kyūshū

I love to travel alone and this is probably one of the best solo trips I have done in my life. The island of Kyūshū is not yet particularly touristy, usually the typical tourist trip does not include this destination because it is quite far from Tokyo and Kyoto. Not for this reason it is not worth a visit, on the contrary, for me it is one of the most beautiful areas in Japan. I was there in November, during a week of university break and I can say that during this period I was able to enjoy spectacular landscapes. The autumn colors were breathtaking, the temperature was pleasant and only one rainy day (the last one).

Here you have my 7 day trip tour of Kyūshū, hope you will enjoy it!

Please Note: Kyushu Rail Pass is useful if you are planning to move to different cities by train.

1st day: Fukuoka

Flight from Tokyo to Fukuoka

From Fukuoka Airport you can take bus or metro to get to the Hakata Station.

In Fukuoka I stayed at Hotel Yumeya, 2 minutes walk from Yakuin station. They assigned me a room with a large bedroom, kitchen and bathroom, with all the necessary comforts to spend a couple of nights.

During the day I visited different temples located in the city center:

• Sumiyoshi-jinja shrine

• Shofukuji temple

• Kushida shrine

• Tochoji temple

I had lunch at Ichiran in Canal City Hakata. Ichiran is a ramen restaurant chain which was born here, for this reason in the Fukuoka's restaurants they offer some special ramens which you can't find in other places. I recommend you to try the Premium Hakata Ramen.

After a day of sightseeing and freshening up at the hotel, I visited Fukuoka Tower. It is Fukuoka's tallest building and the tallest seaside tower in Japan. From the top of the tower you can admire impressive views of Fukuoka City and the prefecture beyond. Moreover, the tower's mirrored surface is covered with lights that allow it to put on impressive evening light shows. The shows change with the season or to celebrate special events (in November you will find Christmas lights).

I had dinner at JR Hakata City where during winter season you will find Christmas markets, lights shows and so on. That night I tried a Japanese omelette filled with mentaiko, which was really tasty. Mentaiko (marinated cod roe) is one of Fukuoka's most famous foods, a must to try!

2nd day: Dazaifu and Fukuoka

Breakfast at REC coffee roasters, a cozy café which offer specialty coffee and tasty pastries and cakes. I had a cappuccino and a slice of apple cake, both really good. A magazine rack offers local free papers alongside the café to peruse while you sip. I really like this kind of places and I was positively surprised to find one in Fukuoka.

Road to Dazaifu (30 minutes by train or bus)

Dazaifu Tenmangū (太宰府天満宮) is probably the most famous Shinto shrine in the Fukuoka prefecture. Tenmangu Shrine is located about 250 meters from Dazaifu Station and the entire length of the approach is lined with shops and cafés. The sanctuary area is very large, you will find the classic red portal, a traditional Japanese bridge and various buildings that make up various parts of the shrine, all immersed in a green forest. During autumn season you can enjoy wonderful colors, thanks to the presence of many maples trees. If you are lucky, you will also find beautiful displays of seasonal flowers.

Kōmyōzen-ji (光明善寺) is a Zen buddhist temple. Kōmyōzen-ji main attraction is its beautiful Japanese gardens. The front garden is the smaller of the two and is composed of fifteen rocks laid amongst a plot of raked pebbles. The rear garden can be viewed from the main temple building. It is larger, and incorporates a lot of plant life in addition to its stones and pebbles. It is without any doubt the most beautiful Japanese garden I ever seen. Certainly also due to the fall colors, which were breathtaking.

Kasanoya is a beautiful tea house where you can have a matcha paired with Dazaifu's traditional umegae mochi. What distinguishes this tea house are the antique furniture and the wonderful view on the outdoor garden. As soon as I entered I felt transported to another dimension, the attention to detail here is at the highest level. The atmosphere is relaxed and the music is also very well chosen. The service is friendly and the products of a high standard. A perfect place to relax during a day of sightseeing.

Kanzeon-ji (観世音寺) is a buddhist temple located 20 minutes walk from Dazaifu Tenmangū. The temple is nothing special but own the oldest bell in the country, which has been designated as National treasure.

Back to Fukuoka

Ōhori kōen (大濠公園) is one of Japan’s most prominent parks with water scenery. The garden is composed by three islands in the middle of a pond that are connected to the mainland and each other by elegant stone bridges. Near by you will find the Fukuoka Art Museum and the Ohori Park Japanese Garden which, in contrast to the rest of the park, charges a small entrance fee. Here you can see typical features like dry landscapes and tea houses.

Gokoku-jinja is located across the street, in the southern part of the park. The path to the shrine leads under a massive torii gate and the main shrine building is a unique gold structure situated in front of a spacious yard.

Fukuoka Castle ruins (福岡城跡) are located in Maizuru Park, divided from the Ōhori park only by a wide road. Don't expect to find a castle here, you will only find some reconstructed gates and guard towers. Is a must to visit during Hanami (cherry blossom) or Momiji (fall) because of the presence of different kind of trees.

At night I recommend you to have an unagi (eel) based dinner at Unagi sho yamamichi (うなぎ処 山道). It is a traditional restaurant located 10 minutes walk from Yakuin Odori subway station. Here you can choose between different sets with eel and various other dishes. I chose one of the simplest one with Unadon (rice bowl with grilled eel), miso soup, pickles salad and chawanmushi. I am a fan of this Japanese traditional plate and I really appreciated this dinner. Take into consideration that the eel is always quite expensive, the prices here are not too high considering the service and food of a high standard.

3rd day: Fukuoka - Beppu

If you have time I recommend you to have breakfast/brunch at Bills. It is a Japanese café chain also located in Tokyo and Osaka. However, Fukuoka's location is something really special. The café is located inside Suijo Park, with an amazing view on Naka river. The interior is characterized by light colors, shelves with colored books and small golden details. Bill's bestseller (which I really recommend you to try) are ricotta hotcakes with fresh banana and honeycomb butter. One of the best fluffy pancakes ever tried. The staff is really kind and helpful.

Marizon is an artificial island of shops, restaurants and weddings juts on the beach. Beautifully shaped, it is accessible from a short walk from the Fukuoka Tower. Being a building built on a pier, I think at sunrise/sunset will be amazing. Unfortunately, it's often windy and it can be annoying.

Canal City Hakata is a multifunctional complex facility with different types of business categories such as shopping mall, movie cinema, theater and amusement arcade. The fountains show with music is one of the most famous attractions. I recommend you to come here to have a meal or to buy some souvenirs.

Road to Beppu (2 hours by train from Fukuoka)

In Beppu I stayed in 2 different hotels Business Hotel Star and Beppu Guest House, both of a low standard, with minimal services, but perfect for staying few nights at very low prices.

If you are looking for a drink after dinner you should try Bar556. Here you will find high quality spirits and liqueurs, both international and Japanese. The owner is very nice and sociable, speaks very good English and will be able to recommend you a cocktail in line with your tastes.

4th day: Beppu

If you visit Beppu you need to dedicate a full day to Beppu Hells (Jigoku - 地獄). The "hells" are seven spectacular hot springs for viewing rather than bathing.

The ticket for all seven hells costs 2000¥ (16€), usable two consecutive days.

- Umi Jigoku

One of the more beautiful hells, the "sea hell" features a pond of boiling, blue water. In its spacious gardens, there are a few smaller, orange colored hells and a clear water pond with lotus flowers.

- Oniishibozu Jigoku

This hell is named after the mud bubbles, which emerge from boiling mud pools. There is also a foot bath with clear water.

- Shiraike Jigoku

The "white pond hell" features a pond of hot, milky water. The pond is surrounded by a nice garden and an old aquarium.

-Kamado Jigoku

The "cooking pot hell" features several boiling ponds and a flashy demon statue as cook. On the grounds, you can drink the hot spring water, enjoy hand and foot baths, inhale the hot spring steam and try various snacks cooked or steamed by the hot spring.

- Oniyama Jigoku

A large number of crocodiles are bred and kept on the grounds of the "monster mountain hell".

- Chinoike Jigoku

The "blood pond hell" features a pond of hot, red water surrounded by dense vegetation.

-Tastumaki Jigoku

The "spout hell" features a boiling hot geyser, which erupts every 30-40 minutes for about 6-10 minutes.

Here you can try some truly peculiar products. Pudding, made by hot spring steam, are sold at some hells. During my visit I tried a Dorayaki filled with hot spring steamed matcha pudding. 

You can't leave Bappu without trying Kamesho Kurukuru sushi restaurant. Here you will probably taste the best sushi of your life. However, you have to bear in mind that they do not take reservations and, being a very well known restaurant, there is always a long line.

I waited more than an hour to have a table but I assure you it was worth it. The price is very low compared to the quality of the product. The amount of fish compared to rice is practically double, unlike what we have been used to in Western sushi. A must to try here is the chutoro (fatty tuna) nigiri, so soft that it melts in your mouth. To sum up great ambiance, wonderful service, superb sushi and impeccable quality.

5th day: Sasaguri - Nagasaki

Beppu - Fukuoka (by train)

I came back to Fukuoka with some friends to see the Sumo Tournament. November is the sumo's month in Fukuoka and is something really traditional to see at least a fight. Unfortunately for us, when we arrived all the tickets where already sold out. We arrived there quite early but a lot of people was already there hours and hours before waiting in line. These things happen, hope to have the possibility to see it one day.

After this disappointment, we decided to leave Fukuoka center and visit Nanzo-in temple (25 minutes by train). Nanzo-in (南蔵院) is home to a huge statue of the Reclining Buddha which claims to be the largest bronze statue in the world. This posture, representing the Buddha's encounter with his death and his entry into Nirvana, is much more common in Southeast Asia's Buddha statues. In Japan, it is more common to see Buddha sitting in a meditative posture. Apart from the buddha, you will find small temples immersed in the forest and some paths that lead to the top of the mountain.

After spending the whole morning visiting Nanzo-in, we came back to Fukuoka and we had lunch at Hakata Station. In this station you will find a floor completely dedicated to Hakata ramen where you will find ramen restaurants of all kinds. I had a huge ramen and a rice bowl with mentaiko for a very cheap price.

Road to Nagasaki (2 hours by train - Limited Express Kamome)

In Nagasaki I decided to stay in a capsule hotel called First Cabin. It was my first time in a capsule hotel (I worked for one in Tokyo but I never slept in one before) and I was super excited. For me the experience was positive: the hotel is modern, the cabin is not claustrophobic and offers all the necessary comforts (they provide pajamas, towels and courtesy kit). Prices were very low. Perfect for a person traveling solo, who is not spending much time in the hotel.

Dinner at 本場インド料理MILAN 大波止 本店 an Indian restaurant near Nagasaki Station. I love Indian food and if you also like it I really recommend you to try this restaurant. I had a vegetable curry and a cheese naan. Their cheese naan is one of the best I ever tried. It is served very hot and cut into wedges. The dough is full of melting cheese, a real guilty pleasure.

6th day: Nagasaki

I had breakfast at Hayama Coffee, to start the day with the right boost. They offer specialty coffee and some salty and sweet snacks. The cafe has a western feel, a bit commercial in some details. Anyways, the filter coffee was really good.

Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown (長崎新地中華街) is the oldest Chinatown in Japan. It is home to a variety of shops and restaurants. It is the best place to eat Nagasaki's famous Chinese influenced dishes: Chanpon and Sara Udon.

Dutch slope (オランダ坂, Oranda-zaka) is a stone-paved street leading up a hillside where many foreign traders resided after the opening of the city's port to foreign trade in 1859. The presence of western-style houses makes you feel in Europe. The view from the hill towards the city is truly impressive.

Nagasaki Koshibyo (孔子廟) Confucius Shrine is one of only a handful of shrines dedicated to the revered Chinese philosopher Confucius in Japan. Constructed in a Chinese architectural style, completely different to other temples in Japan. The buildings and statues are perfectly preserved. What surprised me the most were the colors and the small details of the facade, very different from what I was used to see. Without any doubt the most beautiful temple of the city. Here you also have the possibility to visit the Historical Museum of China which contains a range of artifacts from China, including pottery, sculptures and other works of art.

Glover garden (グラバー園) is an open air museum that exhibits mansions of several of the city's former foreign residents and related buildings. The garden is huge and there is a lot to see, everything is well preserved and clean. It is a good place to take a walk but as a touristic place didn't really surprised me. Probably because it refers to the West, which does not really interest me while I am in Japan.

Kofuku- ji (興福寺) is the oldest and one of the most important Chinese-founded temples in the city. Located in the city's Teramachi ("Temple Town") district, it is the birthplace of the Obaku school of Zen Buddhism in Japan.

Kotai-ji is a Soto Zen temple which holds meditation sessions.

Fukusai-ji (福済寺) hidden behind high buildings, is one of the most unique temples I have come across during my travels in Japan. The original temple was completely destroyed after the atomic bomb and was reconstructed in 1979 with this unique design. The temple is composed by a 18 meters statue of Kannon standing on a turtle's back which forms the walls and roof of the temple. Kannon with her left hand, is said to be giving nectar to the victims who are suffering and with her right, she is praying that the victims sleep peacefully.

Nagasaki Peace park (平和公園, Heiwa Kōen) commemorates the atomic bombing of the city on August 9, 1945, which destroyed a significant portion of the city and killed tens of thousands of inhabitants.

In the center of the complex is located the Hypocenter Park with a simple, black monolith that marks the explosion's epicenter.

On the hill above the Hypocenter Park stands the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum (長崎原爆資料館, Nagasaki Genbaku Shiryōkan) with the mission to inform future generations about what happened before, during and after the atomic bomb explosion. Visiting these places is very touching, I have been moved several times. Even if it is sad, I think is important to visit it to truly realize what happened, to remember the people who have died and not to repeat the same mistake in the future.

Nagasaki Seaside Park is a good place to enjoy the sunset, located close to Glover Garden and Dutch Slope. It is a large grassy open space overlooking the sea, the perfect place to relax, take a walk and enjoy the view.

Near by you will also find the Prefectural Art Museum.

7th day: Shimabara - Kumamoto

Road to Shimabara (島原) (1h 30 minutes by train)

The Shimabara Peninsula is a popular hot spring and hiking destination that lies to the east of Nagasaki City.

Shimabara Castle (島原城, Shimabara-jō) is composed by five-story which houses the Castle Tower Museum (with a collection of Christian artifacts, weapons and armor) and an observation deck on the 5th floor. The castle has views out to Mount Unzen and Kumamoto (on clear days). The castle is really beautiful from the outside and there is a lot to see inside (maybe too much). In fact, if you are not passionate about history the museum may seem boring. Anyways, I assure you that worth a visit.

I came to Shimabara mainly to visit the castle and to take the ferry to Kumamoto. I had lunch at Shimabara Port Tachigui Udon (島原港立ち食いうどん店) with a typical udon soup topped with raw egg yolk, spring onion, fish cakes (蒲鉾, Kamaboto) and seaweed.

Tachigui means "stand and eat", a type of inexpensive restaurant consisting of little more than a cooking area and counter with a very limited menu. These are usually found on the street or inside train stations. There are no seats, customers stand and eat at the counter, often these serve rāmen, soba or udon. 

Road to Kumamoto (1h by ferry)

In Kumamoto I stayed at Hotel The Gate Kumamoto, a super clean and tidy guest house. You can choose between single or family rooms, basic but with all the necessary equipments. The shared bathroom is equipped with hairdryer and free toiletries. Also, if you want to make friends there is a a bar and a shared lounge.

Kyūshū is famous for its hot springs and I couldn't leave without trying one. I went to a public bath called Yulux (湯らっくす). Is the only natural hot spring in Chuo-ku, Kumamoto City. It is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and you can go without a reservation. Obviously, males and females are divided in two different spaces. The onsen is large and there are various tubs/pools to try. It is perfect for relaxing at the end of the day. It was an amazing experience, especially because I was surrounded by locals, it is definitely not a touristic place.

Pay attention, people with tattoos are not allowed to enter in Japanese Onsen. In my case, I only have a tattoo on my wrist and hiding it with a gauze I managed to get inside.

After my experience at the Onsen I got very hungry. I had dinner at Mekiki no Ginji (目利きの銀次), a restaurant chain also present in other cities. The appearance is very eye-catching, full of red and white lamps on the ceiling. The restaurant is specialized in fish, which is always fresh. I chose a Kaisen don (海鮮丼), raw seafood over a bed of unseasoned white rice. In this case, with different kind of raw tuna and tobiko on top.

8th day: Kumamoto - Fukuoka - Tokyo

The last day was raining, it was a gray day, a bit like my soul knowing that my trip was at the end.

That morning I decided to visit Suizenji Joju-en (水前寺成趣園) a spacious, Japanese style landscape garden. The garden had just opened and I was the only visitor. Since I hadn't had breakfast I immediately headed to the tea house to have a matcha and eat something. The lady from the tea house suggest me to try a typical Kumamoto dessert to pair with matcha. He accompanied me to an open room with a direct view of the lake and the splendid garden. I enjoyed every second of that moment, the view left me breathless and the rain made the landscape even more interesting and melancholy.

Kumamoto Castle (熊本城) is one of the most impressive castles in Japan. Unfortunately, it suffered serious damage in the earthquakes of April 2016. Many roof tiles fell, foundations were damaged, walls crumbled and entire structures collapsed. In fact, it was not possible to visit it and I could only see it from afar.

On June 1, 2020, an elevated walkway was opened to the public, allowing for views of the inner castle grounds. The interior of the castle's main keep is scheduled to be reopened to the public in spring 2021, while the rest of the grounds are expected to require a total of about 20 years to be fully repaired.

Kumamoto - Fukuoka (40 minutes by Shinkansen)

Lunch in Hakata Station at Hakata Uogashi (博多魚がし), where I enjoyed a nice mixed sushi platter before going to the airport.

Unlike many other countries, in Japan you can eat very well in train stations and airports

Flight to Tokyo (1h 40 minutes)

I loved every part of this trip and I wouldn't change anything 💕