Eat in Tokyo

I got the chance to live for six months in Tokyo and study in one of the most prestigious universities of the city. Obviously, during that period I tried various restaurants. Here you will find my favorites divided by occasion / type of cuisine.

Sushi

Yanone sushi (矢の根寿司) is located in Nihonbashi district. It is a sushi bar with high-level food and service. Probably the best I tried in Tokyo. The design is minimal but with some charm, which perfectly represents traditional sushi restaurants. Here is all about fresh ingredients, professional sushi makers and good waiter service.

Sushi Zanmai (すしざんまい) is a famous restaurant chain. They have 42 branches in Tokyo, and some in other areas like Osaka and Hokkaido. Most of them, including the first shop in Tsukiji, are sushi bar style where you either get counter seats or table seats and order to the staff. Few restaurants are kaiten sushi, where you can pick up plates from the conveyor belt which runs throughout the restaurants. As you can imagine these are quite commercial restaurants, however, the quality is not bad and the prices are low.

Sushi Misaki Maru (すし三崎丸) is located in Motosumiyoshi, definitely a non-touristic place, where my university dormitory was located. Probably the place I have visited more times and the one I am most emotionally attached. It is a small restaurant with an unassuming design. The sushi is very good. My favorite mixed platter was the one with the enormous unagi (eel) nigiri. Their sushi is always served with hot miso soup and tea, included in the price.

Ramen

Ichiran (一 蘭) is a restaurant chain specialized in Hakata Ramen. Their mission is to provide the best tonkotsu ramen, using only the finest ingredients and the most advanced techniques. At the entrance you will find machines where you have to choose the size of the ramen, the extra toppings and pay. Then at the table, you will have to express your preferences (the type of broth, the spiciness, etc.) on a sheet of paper which will then be taken by the waiter from the window in front of you. You will also be served from the window, without ever seeing the waiter's face. The ramen is very good; the broth has an intense flavor and the soba are very soft. I really like this restaurant, especially for eating alone.

Tsukemen Gonokami Seisakujo (つけ麺 五ノ神製作所) is a restaurant located near Shinjuku station specialized in tsukemen (つけ麺), the "dipping ramen". The dish, invented in Tokyo, consists of noodles which are eaten after being dipped in a separate bowl of soup or broth. The restaurant is a bit rough, with few seats. The dish are really tasty and the service is quick. Although I still prefer ramen, I think it's a dish you must try in Tokyo.

Vegans tend to have a tough time in Japan; outside of Buddhist vegetarian cooking, there’s never been a strong tradition of vegetarian and vegan eating in Japanese society. Ramen and gyozas are those dishes you almost never see in vegan form, so most vegans and vegetarians never get to try them. However, I finally have a restaurant to recommend to vegan traveler coming to Tokyo.

T'S tan tan is a vegan restaurant inside Tokyo Station, they offer a vegan version of traditional Japanese dishes, especially ramen and gyozas. Obviously, a person who has tried the non-vegan dishes will immediately notice the difference, but I think it's a great opportunity for those who don't eat meat and fish.

Sweets

Kagetsudo Honten (花月堂本店) is a pastry shop specialized in Melon pan (メロンパン)*. You can find them in various location but their headquarter is located in Asakusa, near Sensoji temple. Without any doubt the best melon pan ever tried. There is nothing better than a freshly baked one filled with matcha ice cream.

*Melonpan is a type of sweet bun from Japan, that is also popular in Taiwan and China. Is made from an enriched dough covered in a thin layer of crisp cookie dough.

Arteria Bakery is a Japanese pastry shop chain specialized in Melon pan (only for take-away). One of these shops was near my dorm, every time I passed by I was inebriated by the scent of freshly baked pastries. Their Melon pan are very good, even if there is not always the possibility of having them filled with ice cream or something else.

M:ume labo is a shop specialized in Japanese plum products located in Shimokitazawa. The shop is something truly original. Here I tried a very good plum kakigōri, perfect for summer days. Kakigōri (かき氷) is a Japanese shaved iced-dessert flavored with syrup and sweetener, often condensed milk.

Croquant Chou ZakuZaku (クロッカンシュー ザクザク) is located in the most famous street of Harajuku, Takeshitadōri. Here you can have a Croquant (baked almonds, coated with sugar and egg whites) or an ice-cream with croquant crumble. Everything made with the finest ingredients from Hokkaido and good pastry techniques. You will always find a long line in front of the shop, but I think the products worth a visit.

Suzukien (壽々喜園) is an ice-cream and tea shop located in Asakusa, near Sensoji Temple. The shop is home to seven varieties of matcha gelato including one said to be the strongest matcha ice-cream in the world. If I had to choose an ice cream shop in all Japan, I would stick with this. Their matcha ice-cream is the best I ever tried. If you are a matcha lover (like me) you can't miss this place.

Asakusa Soratsuki (浅草そらつき) is located at the side street of Nakamise-dori. They are mainly selling strawberry dorayaki and other strawberry-related sweets. However, I haven't tried anything based on strawberries, I was too attracted by the dorayaki filled with Matcha mousse and Anko (餡子), a red bean paste made from azuki beans. It was really good, the perfect break after a day of sightseeing around Asakusa.

Fluffy pancakes

Gram is a Japanese cafe chain present all over the world. It is my favorite pancakes spot in Japan. Gram’s most popular product is the fluffy, three-stack premium pancakes served with whipped cream, butter and maple syrup. Everyday they provide a limited 60 orders of their premium pancakes, so, you'll need to arrive in advance and wait to be listed. However, the fluffiest and tallest pancakes in the world worth the wait.

3stars pancake (スリー スターズ パンケーキ) is located near Musashi Kosugi station. The interiors remind to American / Hawaiian style design. Their most popular dish is fluffy pancakes with Canadian organic maple syrup, Hokkaido vanilla & fresh cream with star-shaped rusk. Their pancakes have a crisper crust and are not so tall. I prefer the softer ones but these are also not bad. The thing I like the most about this cafe is that they offer special pancakes of the month or based on the period of the year.

Burn Side st. Cafe is located in Omotesandō and is popular for their soft and fluffy pancakes. It is a small hipster coffee shop, with minimalistic design and Scandinavian furniture. Here I tried the "White Soufflé Pancakes", which is the shop’s highly recommended menu item. Amazing fluffy pancakes with classical garnish (whipped cream, maple syrup and butter). Their cappuccino was also really good.

Tea houses

Kosoan (古桑庵) is located in Jiyūgaoka and is my favorite tea house in Tokyo area. Kosoan is not easy to find, it is hidden behind an old wooden house, with just a small sign to indicate the way. Following a stone path under the maple trees you will notice a room at the back, where people sit on straw mats, having their tea in the traditional way. You will have to leave your shoes at the entrance, enter in the Japanese style room and seat around low tables with an amazing view on the external garden. Here you can enjoy amazing matcha (prepared in the traditional way) paired with wagashi (和菓子)*.

*Traditional Japanese confections that are often served with green tea, especially the types made of mochi, anko (azuki bean paste) and fruits.

Aoyama Flower Market (青山フラワーマーケット) is a popular franchised flower shop and café originated in Aoyama (they have more locations around Japan, Paris and London). What distinguishes this cafe is that it is located inside a flower shop. Both location and food are decorated with colorful seasonal flowers, totally instagram-worthy. A must to try is their Flower parfait made of rose jelly, berry mousse, fresh cream and vanilla ice cream topped with rose petals. However, if you come for breakfast or brunch I would recommend their Flower French toast; baguettes soaked in plenty of egg and milk, grilled and topped with honey, fresh cream, cinnamon powder, fresh fruit and edible flowers.

Saten is a modern tea house located in Kichijōji area. Click here to discover a blog post about it.

Specialty Coffee

Canvas Tokyo (キャンバス トウキョウ) is specialized in coffee and donuts. Located just a few minute walk distance from Hiroo station, Canvas is a small and cozy café. You can order from the outside or inside. If you choose to stay inside, there is a narrow seating area on the 2nd floor. One of the biggest reasons I decided to come was not only the atmosphere but for their limited edition autumn leaf latte art in a fiery red and orange gradient. I paired it with something really unusual a Dango (団子) stick made with donuts dough. A really recommended place to visit if you like original and instagrammable food.

Bongen Coffee is a specialty coffee shop in Ginza. It is a very small café, only for take away, characterized by an elegant design. What makes this place special (apart from coffee) is their big bonsai behind the counter. Here you can taste amazing filter coffee from different origins (high-quality ones), or a good matcha latte. Unfortunately, the food offer is very limited.

Glitch coffee brewed is a specialty coffee shop located in Akasaka. Their mission is to serve top quality specialty coffee with light roast and to deliver the best character of each origin. The café design is a mix between a classical Japanese kissaten and a Nordic hipster coffee shop. If you need a quick bite to go along with your drink you can snag a pastry at the counter.

Passage Coffee is located in front of Keio University (where I studied during my stay in Japan) along the bustling Sakurada Dori in Mita. Is a small and minimalistic café, with few seats and tables. The café owner Shuichi Sasaki is the 2014 World Aeropress* Champion. They offer a huge variety of coffee origins and the staff is professional. A must to try if you are a coffee lover.

*AeroPress is a device for brewing coffee.

Pizza

Pizzeria e Trattoria da Isa is located in Nakameguro. Probably the best pizzeria tried in Japan. The pizza chef is the Japanese Hisanori Yamamoto who studied and worked in Naples. The pizza is Neapolitan style and the ingredients are all imported from Italy. Much better than some pizzas eaten in Italy!

If you are Italian it is possible that someone from the staff would like to exchange few words with you, at least the pizza chef who is very friendly.

Antica Pizzeria da Michele is an Italian chain already present all around the world. It was the first time trying this pizza and for me the pizza is too large and therefore very thin, I would have preferred it smaller but with a higher thickness. However, the ingredients are really good and the prices on average.

Pizzeria Fabbrica 1090 is located near Motosumiyoshi Station. This pizzeria is certainly the least known of those listed, especially for its location outside the city center. The place is quite anonymous from the outside but inside it is well cared and welcoming. Their pizza is really good, with quality ingredients. Unfortunately, the size is very small and the price is higher than average. I recommend their Quattro Formaggi which is served with honey.

Garage 50 is located in Kichijōji. Here the pizzas are cooked in a retrofitted VW van. The inside of the vehicle has been refurbished to fit a pizza oven and the owner makes each one fresh to order. Here you will find the cheapest pizza in Tokyo. In fact, all the pizzas have a price of 600¥ (less than half the average). You can't go wrong with the Pesto and Mascarpone one. Obviously, it is not the best pizza you can find in town but the value for money is excellent.

Indian restaurants

Darjeeling (ダージリン) is an Indian restaurant located in Nishinippori. I would like to start by saying that I am an Indian food lover, even though I have never been to India. This is probably the best Indian restaurant I have ever tried (in the world).

As soon as you enter you feel like you are in India, the restaurant is full of colorful traditional furniture. The tables are set with gold cutlery and flowers. I have never seen such a thing in my life. Not to mention the food. Their Cheese Naan is unbeatable; it has an unusual shape, very large and swollen, but very good. Their curries are also super tasty. The second time I visited the restaurant they offered me tea and sweets at the end of the meal, the staff is very kind and friendly.